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Introduction (Oh and help!!)Introduction (Oh and help!!) Hi folks,
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Re: Introduction (Oh and help!!)hello Duncan and welcome to the fray! I am not a production engineer - not even a professional engineer - so I can only comment from my own experience in making things, mainly models. However, what you describe reminds me of a large diameter ring gear I once made, but obviously yours has deeper "teeth"! I would have thought a rotary table might do the job, either set vertically or horizontally, or you might consider a gear cutting type of set up with a dividing head and using a slitting saw in place of the profiled gear cutter. Just a few thoughts and no doubt others will have other ideas. You might also consider, if its only a short heat sink, cutting a long bar with fins and then parting off the length you need - save a lot of time I think! Depends whther the housing and finnned unit are one piece or not I suppose, but if not, that might be worth thinking about. "He who knows nothing is closer to the truth than he whose mind is filled with falsehoods and errors"
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Re: Introduction (Oh and help!!) Hi Peter,
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Re: Introduction (Oh and help!!) I would also go for a slitting saw and either a rotary table or dividing head, it rather depends on the milling facility you have, saws are available in a variery of sizes and thicknesses, perhaps a quick look at the J and L site would help you to pick one. I am surprised that your existing supplier had trouble in milling these in ali, I do similar parts in steel without trouble so ali should be OK.Iwould lubricte the saw with WD40.
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Re: Introduction (Oh and help!!) hello Duncan,
"He who knows nothing is closer to the truth than he whose mind is filled with falsehoods and errors"
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Re: Introduction (Oh and help!!),
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Re: Introduction (Oh and help!!) I'm not sure whether they did have any problems machining the slots, or if it was an excuse to charge us more?! I'd always imagined that ali would be lovely to machine?
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Re: Introduction (Oh and help!!)Duncan - I would suggest you use a slitting saw on a horizontal type of mill - if you try it on an arbour in a vertical mill and the head isn't spot-on vertical to the bed you might have problems! I used to have a Bridgeport and they are good versatile machines but it was just too big for my needs. So, I would suggest you look for a mill that will give you vertical and traditional horizontal milling capability - but again, I can only speak from my own experience and others may have different views. And if you have a mill with lever operated downfeed on the quill you also have a great drilling machine! I have a slitting saw 4.75 dia by 3/16 thick which you are welcome to borrow for cost of postage but it may be cheaper in the long run to buy one when you get your mill! The other Peter mentioned using WD 40 as a cutting lubricant for aluminium - it is good, but I use white spirit 'cos its cheaper! But thats a Yorkshireman for you! "He who knows nothing is closer to the truth than he whose mind is filled with falsehoods and errors"
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Re: Introduction (Oh and help!!)
Thanks Peter, that's a good website they have there. I reckon I'd need a 4" saw to get the depth of slot we require. I believe 'by law' anyone from Yorkshire has to be friendly and helpful
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Re: Introduction (Oh and help!!) "Excuse my ignorance but is a dividing head always mounted vertically? I'm assuming it is mainly for cutting gears and indexable? I was wondering how you would keep track of a rotary table, or is this the reason the dividing head exists? "
"He who knows nothing is closer to the truth than he whose mind is filled with falsehoods and errors"
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Re: Introduction (Oh and help!!)
Right, I've figured out the dividing head now!
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Re: Introduction (Oh and help!!)having the saw out of alignment can either break the blade of a thinnish one or lead to a messy end with a thicker one! It is fairly simple to make a device that fits in the vertical head and carries a dial indicator on a radial arm which is a great aid for ensuring proper vertical alignment - not rocket science but a crucial state of affairs. There are many "horizontal" milling machines which have removeable vertical heads. One of the smaller which would handle your need is the Adcock and Shipley 1ES for instance but there are many others. A look on somewhere like http://premiermachinetools.netfirms.com/stocklist.htm will give you some ideas. I have never bought from them but they look good and have a changing range. And they are approachable too, even though they are not in Yorkshire (but not too far away!) Also, have a look on www.lathes.co.uk - an amazing website with details of loads of machines and a "for sale" category too. It will give you an idea of what exists, what is available and an idea of prices. "He who knows nothing is closer to the truth than he whose mind is filled with falsehoods and errors"
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Re: Introduction (Oh and help!!) Certainly don't want to end up with a messy end! I'm now spotting these horizontal machines with vertical heads, makes sense now although I guess in an ideal world you would have both to save the hassle of changing things around.
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Re: Introduction (Oh and help!!)certainly 2 milling machines would be good - but then you have the job of re-setting up the job when you transfer from one machine to the other. The Americans in the early 19th century got the right idea when they invented interchangeable manufacturing - one machine for one job! But unless you are producing thousands then perhaps overkill and very expensive if you need to carry out several machining operations! Have fun - I'm sure you will. "He who knows nothing is closer to the truth than he whose mind is filled with falsehoods and errors"
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Re: Introduction (Oh and help!!) Seems to me these could be cast. There is a company Local to me who is probably the best aluminium casting company in the UK making the parts other can't, If you want their name & contact details send me a personal message or your e mail and I'll send them on. We took a group of students on a vist last year, I enjoyed it far more that the students, it was a complete contrast to the hi tech electronics factory we also visited. The patten making shop had the best selection of Wadkin woodworking machines from the 50's I've ever seen as well as a CNC jobby or was it a rapid proto-type machine anyway, they can cast then CNC machine for you if you need complete service.
My world still turns on a Colchester lathe
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Re: Introduction (Oh and help!!) Hmm,
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Re: Introduction (Oh and help!!) At 6" (152mm)Dia. it's quite a lump of alloy, Dependant on quantities you could possibly be looking at an extrusion, cut from bar and turn O/D. There used to be a "Trial" batch service by some extrusion manufacturers, might be worth checking.
You might not like what I say, but that doesn't mean I'm wrong.
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Re: Introduction (Oh and help!!) Having only just seen this posting, and reading the the bottom, I would tend to agree with Erik.
I keep trying until tiring.
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Re: Introduction (Oh and help!!)
Beat me to it Bill
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Re: Introduction (Oh and help!!) Hi Duncan-I was away yesterday (picking up the swager)-not a great bargain-but see you've already been getting the usual friendly help this site provides. It struck me after you came round that a bridgeport was probably best for you altho it might have a bigger capacity than you need and a smaller turret miller might be adequate.Chester and Warco amongst others have FE imports of turret millers. I don't have experience of turret millers preferring the" old fashioned" Horizontal and Vertical millers but I think you can set the head of Bridgeorts over 90 degrees to give effectively a horizontal mill , altho not as rugged as a dedicated Horizontal mill. Gang milling on a horizontal would certainly give the quickest result , milling the whole lot in one pass , although milling doesn't give a top class finish. (this if anything would probably improve the heat transfer characteristics but not the aesthetics)
Alan. Everyday is a schoolday.
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Yep, this is the obvious way to do it other than to throw it in a cnc machining centre.





















































